TAPP Clutch Install

[AXE]

For those of you that installed the TAPP primary, did you install the plastic fan blade on the back side of the primary? I see on the TAPP website, they recommend not using it (see attached photo).

However, it was shipped by Evo uninstalled with screws. And Evo's website photos show it installed, but their directions do not reference it at all.

Seems like it would help with cooling, but perhaps clearance is an issue? I guess I will have to call EVO.

 

[AXE]

Evo says the fan blade is to be installed using blue loctite on the screws. It is shipped unassembled as they had problems with the plastic blades breaking due to the weight of the clutch on them during shipping.

I also asked them if they lapped the shaft to cluch surfaces. He said yes, so I did. That's how I've always done it.

They are in the process of updating their instructions to include a few additional items.

Install is pretty easy, so less than an hour.

 

[AXE]

Clutch seems to work petty well. Gonna probably have to adjust weights some for duning.

It's pulling like a freight train, but gets up to 9500 rpm and 65 mph fast and it was still pulling..... didn't want to blow the motor......LOL.

Probably be good like this with 35s and trail riding and crawling.

I didn't have the CVT cover on, but seemed to manage belt temps well. Highest I measured with my infrared thermometer was about 153F after a few good runs. Clutches themselves did not even feel hot at 85-100F.

These runs were with Kawasaki belt. Gonna try the WBB0047-G a little tomorrow.

 

[Sand Shark]

For those of you that installed the TAPP primary, did you install the plastic fan blade on the back side of the primary? I see on the TAPP website, they recommend not using it (see attached photo).

However, it was shipped by Evo uninstalled with screws. And Evo's website photos show it installed, but their directions do not reference it at all.

Seems like it would help with cooling, but perhaps clearance is an issue? I guess I will have to call EVO.

Are there no cooling fins on the back side of the Tapp primary? You need something to move the air around the primary.

The picture of the clutch on Evo's site shows the plastic fins on the back of the primary.

 

[Sand Shark]

Clutch seems to work petty well. Gonna probably have to adjust weights some for duning.

It's pulling like a freight train, but gets up to 9500 rpm and 65 mph fast and it was still pulling..... didn't want to blow the motor......LOL.

Probably be good like this with 35s and trail riding and crawling.

I didn't have the CVT cover on, but seemed to manage belt temps well. Highest I measured with my infrared thermometer was about 153F after a few good runs. Clutches themselves did not even feel hot at 85-100F.

These runs were with Kawasaki belt. Gonna try the WBB0047-G a little tomorrow.

Definitely going to want those RPMs down below 9,000.

 

[AXE]

Are there no cooling fins on the back side of the Tapp primary? You need something to move the air around the primary.

The picture of the clutch on Evo's site shows the plastic fins on the back of the primary.

View attachment 197

Yes. I thought it was billet, but it looks like 3D printed plastic. It comes separated from heavy clutch because they can get damaged during shipping. Have to use a little blue loctite in the bolts. There is a torque spec, but I just snugged them.

 

[AXE]

Definitely going to want those RPMs down below 9,000.

Not really, it makes more boost above 9000, so your not really getting all the power unless you're above that. That being said, you don't want to ride there all the time.

I made some more adjustments and it runs quite nicely now. Gonna rip it at Glamis this weekend and see what happens.

 

[AXE]

I did little more testing today and I've decided that I liked the ramp arms to be in the #1 position on all four and 4 total small bolts in the back of the arms. I did mine with 2 bolts on 2 opposing spiders arms, which is what Tapp showed in one of their direcrions with pictures.

I did not adjust the arms inside the cover and mine came with two washers each side of the arm bolt.

This gives you strong acceleration, but does pull 9000+rpms pretty readily. It will cruise at 70-80 mph at 7000-8000 rpms. Cruising at 55-65 mph is about 6000-7000 rpms. Had a smooth engagement in forward and reverse if you ease into it.

Did several runs and had the CVT cover off and ambient temps were 65ish, but highest belt temps on my infrared thermometer were 165F. Clutch sheaves didn't get very warm. About 100 degrees on rear shelves, less on front.

Probably the only thing I don't like is rolling off the throttle there is pretty firm compression braking and sometimes it makes coasting a little jerky as it rolls off the rpms like your blipping the throttle.

 

[MFortie]

You’re running the green (2200) spring, correct?

 

[AXE]

You’re running the green (2200) spring, correct?

I thought it looked grey, but its the lightest one. I'd say it engages at about 2000-2400 rpm, sooner if the clutch is warm.

 

[Sand Shark]

You plan on running the cover in Glamis? Your clutch set up sounds like it should be just about perfect for the dunes.

Curious to see what your belt temps will be and your secondary.

Have fun in Glamis!!! The dunes got a nice reset with all the wind.

 

[AXE]

You plan on running the cover in Glamis? Your clutch set up sounds like it should be just about perfect for the dunes.

Curious to see what your belt temps will be and your secondary.

Have fun in Glamis!!! The dunes got a nice reset with all the wind.

Ran some today and had the cover on. It was interesting the belt temp came up a little faster but then seemed to stay just under the red. However, when I stopped it heated up some and even cruising it did not cool off past half way. Stock was a little better for me, except hard runs.

I thought the belt was biting too much and I noticed I couldn't spin and drift as easily. Also dug alot climbing technical sections. Didn't like that as much.

I pulled the cover after about 30 miles and belt looked great. Noticed a little more grease residue from the stock secondary on the inside of the previously cleaned cover.

I added the additional four bolts into the back end of the arms, so now it has all 8 installed. Did a short test close to camp and I am thinking this might be better. Drifted and climbed a little easier in soft sand. Gonna do some more testing with a run tonight, then a little harder tomorrow.

After that short test, there was lots of sand in the primary. I wouldn't run without it after seeing that.

Lots of people here surprisingly, so lots of tracks already innthe fresh sand.

 

[Raidernut]

For those of you that installed the TAPP primary, did you install the plastic fan blade on the back side of the primary? I see on the TAPP website, they recommend not using it (see attached photo).

However, it was shipped by Evo uninstalled with screws. And Evo's website photos show it installed, but their directions do not reference it at all.

Seems like it would help with cooling, but perhaps clearance is an issue? I guess I will have to call EVO.

If im reading your picture from tapp correctly it says they do recommend running it? Not sure why you said they dont

 

[AXE]

If im reading your picture from tapp correctly it says they do recommend running it? Not sure why you said they dont

You are correct. I read that incorrectly..... duh. I installed it after talking with Evo. Seems to work well haven't had any significant belt temps.

That being said, I got cocky tonight and manged to blow an OEM belt ripping Oldsmobile Hill several times tonight. I've tested a couple belts and this one had about 300+ miles on it in the dunes. Did an inspection on it just before this ride and it looked good. With the weights set like I have them now belt temps were fine. I suspect these belts just aren't up to the task when running them hard.

Put on a WBB0047-G on the way back to camp. Its looser and I don't like the slap you hear when you first throttle up due to the play. But it seemed to run really smoothly when cruising. Got less than 100 miles on that belt and will run it some more.

I would like to see a belt length somewhere between OEM and WBB.

First blown belt on the H2 and I've only blown 3 on all my sxs since 2005 with my first Yamaha Rhino.

 

[AXE]

Went to the WBB0047-G belt today. Maybe getting a little slippage in the steep and soft sand with looser fitting belt and yesterday's settings.

Put the spring loaded clickers to setting #2 and it seemed to firm it up with better acceleration and no issues with belt temps. Overall, thus clutch seems to favor 4wd. I get more belt temps in 2wd and did not see that with the stock clutch.

When I blew the belt, it cracked the housing for the cvt temp sensor, so the sensor is not sitting correctly and probably getting some ambient air off the header/motor. So no real way to be sure on temps now.

This thing needs a Razorback belt temp guage to even begin to get an accurate measure of belt temps. So I'll be adding one of those.

 

[Sand Shark]

Sounds like you are getting the clutch dialed in.

Belt temps in the pinkish/red area means you will be on borrowed time with the belt. As you see, when things get hot the secondary flings some grease. When I ran the EVO Gboost belt it ran cooler but it also seemed to stretch over time and get looser. The Gboost belt did last the longest, but not by that many miles over the stock belt. I agree a belt that is just slightly longer than the OEM might be the ticket. I like the feel of OEM belt over the Gboost.

I wonder if the Gates belt KWI sells is the same size as the Gboost or slightly smaller.

Be careful with running no cover. If you blow a belt there is chance the belt will hit the wires on the voltage regulator. I would be great if someone came up with a scatter shield that bolts into the hole where the cover bolts in verses the $500 scatter shield TMW sells.

I truly believe a better secondary will solve the belt issues in the dunes. Depending on what Kawi comes up for the fix an aftermarket secondary might be in my future.

 

[AXE]

So another thing I did late yesterday afternoon was drop my tire pressure another 2 psi. I am now running these SS365 tires at 7. 5 psi. That's pretty low for a heavy rig, but the tire carcasses are stiff enough to still look normal. This seemed to really help with traction and kept the CVT temps down in 2wd, while it might have slightly increased them in 4wd. So that goes to show how many variables there are when you starting making adjustments.

On the OEM clutch I would get slightly higher belt temps in 4wd, but I like running 2wd better cause these tires drift and spool up so fast.

 

[AXE]

I believe its the GBoost Cross Country or Bad Ass belt thats slightly shorter than WBB. There was a post on Facebook about it some time ago.

The WBB does not fit the angle of the sheaves well. The top 2mm portion of the belt is not wearing, however now that I logged some more miles on it, it does seem to be flattening out some on the entire edge.

I was using an infrared thermometer shooting the temps from the cvt exhaust (top elbow and sensor removed) yesterday. I was mostly pulling temps between 140-180F. But after a little harder running, I did see a couple readings 190-200F. Pulled the cover again and belt looked good. In fact, when it was warmest it seemed tighter on the sheaves with less deflection. Thought that was odd.

 

[Sand Shark]

I believe its the GBoost Cross Country or Bad Ass belt thats slightly shorter than WBB. There was a post on Facebook about it some time ago.

The WBB does not fit the angle of the sheaves well. The top 2mm portion of the belt is not wearing, however now that I logged some more miles on it, it does seem to be flattening out some on the entire edge.

I was using an infrared thermometer shooting the temps from the cvt exhaust (top elbow and sensor removed) yesterday. I was mostly pulling temps between 140-180F. But after a little harder running, I did see a couple readings 190-200F. Pulled the cover again and belt looked good. In fact, when it was warmest it seemed tighter on the sheaves with less deflection. Thought that was odd.

I still find it odd your belt temps are less in 2wd. The SS360 you can run really low air pressure. I would be taking the infrared thermometer and pointing it at the belt.

 

[AXE]

I still find it odd your belt temps are less in 2wd. The SS360 you can run really low air pressure. I would be taking the infrared thermometer and pointing it at the belt.

I'm SS365 that are 35 inch, they are quite large and weigh about the same as stock tores and wheels..

After 150 miles and a few different setups. There's no difference between OEM clutching and adding the Tapps primary. For me both were decent for but not ideal for belt temps. You just have to careful when you got hard. Probably have to add the secondary for more airflow.

This Tapps clutch is great for adjustability. If you had a belt and CVT that could move more air, it would be incredible. The clutch bites the belt hard and it launches fast. If you can manage the belt temps, its pretty damnd good.

I'm considering one of those inlet fans for the cvt inlet to see what improvements it may provide.

I tried this make shift ram air on the cvt snorkel and it worked a little better above 25 mph, buy may have been working less in the steeper technical terrain.