15% reduction with the KWI Secondary

[Cornell Customs LLC111]

Want 15% lower gearing on your H2 without changing the primary clutch?
The KWI Clutching H2 Fusion secondary works great with the OEM Primary with the H2 Hyperdrive weights and Billet overdrive cap.
Of coarse the complete H2 Fusion package is better but if you can’t quite swing the price of the new primary this is a great option, we have ran this combo quite a bit on our shop H2.
With the H2 Fusion secondary you can run a factory length belt or a KRX length belt for 5% reduction or the PRO R belt for 15% reduction just by changing the belt which is easy with the included KWI belt tool.
Get in touch with us and we can get a setup custom built for your needs.

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[Fozzy72]

I appreciate you trying to keep this forum alive. I will be on the rocks in Moab tomorrow and through the weekend. I currently have the TVM/KWI weight kit set up for the high elevation of our sand dunes. Zero weights in the arms. The hyperdrive cover and KWI secondary with the Pro R belt. If this set up needs more weight what do you think would be a good starting point? To be honest I hope not to have to change a thing. I would rather have a setup that’s not totally dialed for the dunes or the rocks, but good enough not to have to mess with it every weekend because I change riding locations. Thanks for all you do for this forum and H2 owners.

 

[Cornell Customs LLC111]

I appreciate you trying to keep this forum alive. I will be on the rocks in Moab tomorrow and through the weekend. I currently have the TVM/KWI weight kit set up for the high elevation of our sand dunes. Zero weights in the arms. The hyperdrive cover and KWI secondary with the Pro R belt. If this set up needs more weight what do you think would be a good starting point? To be honest I hope not to have to change a thing. I would rather have a setup that’s not totally dialed for the dunes or the rocks, but good enough not to have to mess with it every weekend because I change riding locations. Thanks for all you do for this forum and H2 owners.

What size tires are you on?, we have found you need some weight added to keep from hitting the limiter early with 33" tires, you will probably be fine on the rocks but some heel weight (screws nearest to the pin) will help with belt engagement, you will probably need a littlie more tip weight to keep from hitting the limiter early in the dunes and yes you can get it dialed in for both so you don't have to keep making changes.
For best performance we like to set it up to see around 8200 RPMs at 55 mph on a wide open run starting at 20-25mph and you should hit the rev limiter right at 100.

 

[Sand Shark2]

Is the KWI secondary larger than the Tapp Secondary? Just wonder if those with Tapp secondaries can run the Pro R belt.

 

[Cornell Customs LLC111]

Is the KWI secondary larger than the Tapp Secondary? Just wonder if those with Tapp secondaries can run the Pro R belt.

I don't know about the Tapp, the KWI is larger diameter than the OEM, the KWI is set up to close further to use the longer belt, diameter won't help if the secondary doesn't close far enough to tighten up the belt.
We have modified the OEM secondary to work with the longer ProR belt but it rides really high... but it works.

 

[Fozzy72]

What size tires are you on?, we have found you need some weight added to keep from hitting the limiter early with 33" tires, you will probably be fine on the rocks but some heel weight (screws nearest to the pin) will help with belt engagement, you will probably need a littlie more tip weight to keep from hitting the limiter early in the dunes and yes you can get it dialed in for both so you don't have to keep making changes.
For best performance we like to set it up to see around 8200 RPMs at 55 mph on a wide open run starting at 20-25mph and you should hit the rev limiter right at 100.

We just got back home, yes I am on the stock 33’s for now. I will go to the System 3 36” tires. Hopefully get them for the next trip in November. So I am not sure what the clutch setup needs to be for a larger tire.

My current setup was usable, but I noticed a few things maybe you can explain to me. The compression braking is super hard to keep the clutches engaged. Not sure if that is the weights or there is no “notch” to hold it. My x3 you could give it gas and once you got the compression braking going it would hold it until you took the chance of it over revving or you gassed or braked to get it to release. Is this a Kawi or KWI thing? It would also seem weird when I was going 50+ MPH going down the road trying too hold the speed limit. It would act like it was disengaging and coasting when I let off the gas and then when I gave it gas I could hear and feel the clutch engage and it would kinda jerk, especially in Full power. Full power is pretty much unusable in the rocks. I spent most of the time in MID, but it seemed like it would slip the belt on engagement more than full power. Full you would feel and hear the clutch close and lock onto the belt and give you way to much power and break the tires free. This car loves to go fast and hard, I can’t imagine running it without the ProR belt and KWI secondary. But it would be a good rock bouncer. Thank you for any advice you can share. I know its just getting it dialed in for my liking.

 

[Cornell Customs LLC111]

We just got back home, yes I am on the stock 33’s for now. I will go to the System 3 36” tires. Hopefully get them for the next trip in November. So I am not sure what the clutch setup needs to be for a larger tire.

My current setup was usable, but I noticed a few things maybe you can explain to me. The compression braking is super hard to keep the clutches engaged. Not sure if that is the weights or there is no “notch” to hold it. My x3 you could give it gas and once you got the compression braking going it would hold it until you took the chance of it over revving or you gassed or braked to get it to release. Is this a Kawi or KWI thing? It would also seem weird when I was going 50+ MPH going down the road trying too hold the speed limit. It would act like it was disengaging and coasting when I let off the gas and then when I gave it gas I could hear and feel the clutch engage and it would kinda jerk, especially in Full power. Full power is pretty much unusable in the rocks. I spent most of the time in MID, but it seemed like it would slip the belt on engagement more than full power. Full you would feel and hear the clutch close and lock onto the belt and give you way to much power and break the tires free. This car loves to go fast and hard, I can’t imagine running it without the ProR belt and KWI secondary. But it would be a good rock bouncer. Thank you for any advice you can share. I know its just getting it dialed in for my liking.
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I would add some weight to the heel to help with engagement, The H2 is hard to keep the belt engaged down hill unless you keep the RPMs up above engagement.
I stay in mid power mode on the rocks, if you think it's bad now you are really going to hate it with 36" tires plus unless you beef up the drive line you're going to have to be easy on the throttle to keep from breaking things with the larger tires.
You can get lower engagement and much better belt grip with the KWI primary with the AOP weights.

 

[olliechristopher17]

Pretty interesting assessment of doing clutch modifications to this platform. My OEM setup has very usable engine braking when letting off the gas. Of course that might change as the speeds increase. For myself nothing is needed for my use scenario.

This thing is a hoot to drive and I have adapted 100% to the stock CVT clutch in just a few rides. Not sure on the aftermarket clutches but this rig needs only a quick blip of the go pedal to engage engine braking if going down a steep hill when idling. Do you lose that ability with an aftermarket clutch? Or can it be tuned to provide engine braking with a throttle blip? The engagement is super duper smooth and seamless in all the power modes. The only time I have felt it "jerk" was when I first drove it brand new out of staging area.

IMO it's all about adapting to the characteristics of the rig. Myself and the group of guys I hang out with are all coming off decades of different two wheeled bikes from 2 strokes to 4 strokes to big street bikes and adventure bikes both dirt and street. We all agree these CVT and DCT equipped rigs are the easiest of any motorized vehicle to adapt to.

 

[Cornell Customs LLC111]

Pretty interesting assessment of doing clutch modifications to this platform. My OEM setup has very usable engine braking when letting off the gas. Of course that might change as the speeds increase. For myself nothing is needed for my use scenario.

This thing is a hoot to drive and I have adapted 100% to the stock CVT clutch in just a few rides. Not sure on the aftermarket clutches but this rig needs only a quick blip of the go pedal to engage engine braking if going down a steep hill when idling. Do you lose that ability with an aftermarket clutch? Or can it be tuned to provide engine braking with a throttle blip? The engagement is super duper smooth and seamless in all the power modes. The only time I have felt it "jerk" was when I first drove it brand new out of staging area.

IMO it's all about adapting to the characteristics of the rig. Myself and the group of guys I hang out with are all coming off decades of different two wheeled bikes from 2 strokes to 4 strokes to big street bikes and adventure bikes both dirt and street. We all agree these CVT and DCT equipped rigs are the easiest of any motorized vehicle to adapt to.

The belt engagement works the same way with the aftermarket clutches , a blip of the throttle is usually all it takes to keep it engaged, the advantage to aftermarket clutching or even aftermarket weights to a certain extent is the ability to lower that engagement even more and dial in the clutch for best performance, the 15% reduction on the low end makes a big difference in crawling as well as acceleration off the bottom.
I ran 3 different setups this evening dialing in the KWI H2 Fusion setup with more performance oriented weights over my crawler weights I run with 35s.
I have multiple weight profiles, different springs and can run different length belts to adjust the clutching for how I want it to perform, there are just so many options and ways to tune this clutch system.

 

[olliechristopher17]

Thank you Steve!! I imagine at some point I will want the adjustment of an aftermarket setup. For now all is good. OTOH a 15% reduction sure does sound tempting.....