TAPP Clutch Install

[Sand Shark]

On my H2 the primary never got hot. It was always the secondary that was extremely hot. I am thinking the Tapp secondary will probably improve airflow and belt temps. I have not seen anyone post about results running the Tapp secondary with the Evo clutch cover mod.

I think for now maybe running a second tube for air flow directly onto the secondary (Like what Polaris did on the Turbo cars) would be helpful or finding a way to add cooling fins. Maybe some one can make the fins that bolt on like on your Tapp primary.

 

[AXE]

When I first tested mine on the street after the Tapp Primary install I got several temperature readings on the primary and secondary sheave without the cover. The temps on the sheave never seemed that high. The inner sheave faces got slightly warmer, but never seen over 100 degrees. I pulled the cover in the dunes after some running and I thinknthe hottest I seen was like 140 degrees, but I'm sure they were hotter while running.

I see Razorback has a cvt fan that works like a thermostat in combination with their guage. But its over $400, so with guage your spending another $800. Not seen any real world tests, so I'm worried that the inline fan could restrict airflow.

I agree with you, there needs to be a second inlet by the secondary.

 

[Sand Shark]

When I first tested mine on the street after the Tapp Primary install I got several temperature readings on the primary and secondary sheave without the cover. The temps on the sheave never seemed that high. The inner sheave faces got slightly warmer, but never seen over 100 degrees. I pulled the cover in the dunes after some running and I thinknthe hottest I seen was like 140 degrees, but I'm sure they were hotter while running.

I see Razorback has a cvt fan that works like a thermostat in combination with their guage. But its over $400, so with guage your spending another $800. Not seen any real world tests, so I'm worried that the inline fan could restrict airflow.

I agree with you, there needs to be a second inlet by the secondary.

Not sure that fan will do much on the inlet side. Perhaps it would help on the outlet/exhaust port get that hot air out and away from the secondary.

 

[AXE]

Not sure that fan will do much on the inlet side. Perhaps it would help on the outlet/exhaust port get that hot air out and away from the secondary.

After I removed the temp sensor cvt exhust elbow, I was able to get a better feel for how much air could move through the system. Idling it wasn't much, revving in neutral it was a noticeable amount. However, we took a leave blower from a couple feet away and it immediately moved a massive amount of air. So the system can move air, but its starved for air cause there minimum fan blades. This is where a second inlet line on the side of the CVT cover might improve cooling considerably.

I'm not sure its worth chasing, may just have to get the Tapp secondary and be done with it. I think the La Rue has an advantage with the double sided cooling fins, which also help at idle and slow speeds. Seems like the Tapp primary could have had a set of cooling fins machined into the cap.

 

[Cornell Customs LLC]

FYI Some info regarding different length belts and modifications we have made to the secondary

 

[AXE]

FYI Some info regarding different length belts and modifications we have made to the secondary

I've watched that before. What exactly did you do to modify the factory secondary? I am interested to see if it helps with belt temps and if it works with Tapp primary.

With the stock clutch, I liked rhe OEM belt best and never had issues in 500 miles. They stretched some and had just the right amount of deflection. The WBB was decent, but a little loose for me in low RPMs.so only ran it about 100 miles.

With the Tapp primary and stock secondary clutches, a used (stretched) OEM belt was pretty tight. The WBB was just about the right length, just a tad loose. For this setup, I would like a 48 inch belt, so halfway between the OEM and WBB.

 

[Cornell Customs LLC]

I've watched that before. What exactly did you do to modify the factory secondary? I am interested to see if it helps with belt temps and if it works with Tapp primary.

With the stock clutch, I liked rhe OEM belt best and never had issues in 500 miles. They stretched some and had just the right amount of deflection. The WBB was decent, but a little loose for me in low RPMs.so only ran it about 100 miles.

With the Tapp primary and stock secondary clutches, a used (stretched) OEM belt was pretty tight. The WBB was just about the right length, just a tad loose. For this setup, I would like a 48 inch belt, so halfway between the OEM and WBB.

We do quite a bit of machine work to allow the secondary to close more and allow for the use of a longer belt which then allows the belt to ride higher in the secondary giving you lower initial gearing,, the secondary should not be fully closed with any belt as it then becomes loose and the primary has to close furthur to begin belt engagement.
With the Gboost belt the secondary is fully closed and the belt is still tight enough but with any belt wear it will become loose, with our modifications even with the much longer KRX belt the secondary still has room to travel and keeps the belt tight.
We have not done extensive testing yet to see how the KRX belt will hold up but it's the same compound and construction as the OEM H2 belt, we have put any further H2 testing and product development on hold until we see what Kawasaki does with any CVT updates or replacement.

 

[AXE]

Thanks for that additional information. I think your secondary modification makes a lot of sense and gets at the issues I noticed with belt length.

I did some testing with OEM clutching on a few belts and noticed that both the OEM and WBB belts stretched about 1 cm or so after a moderated break in and then 100 miles. That definitely made the WBB too long and you would get some belt slap at take off and if you were on and off he throttle quickly like in the dunes.

I seen some comments that Kawasaki may have a clutch fix by April, so I'll wait and see before too many more modifications.

 

[Sand Shark]

Interesting stuff. The secondary is a big heat generator. Curious if your machining on the secondary will help the OEM belt.

 

[AXE]

Interesting stuff. The secondary is a big heat generator. Curious if your machining on the secondary will help the OEM belt.

When I shot temps with my infrared thermo on mine without the cover, I did not see a big temp difference primary to secondary. The biggest difference was on the inside sheave, which was always warmer. The secondary definitely needs fan blades. I am hoping Kawasaki does something with the secondary too.

 

[Raidernut]

Got my clutches installed today and thanks to alot of tips from this thread was painless. Ended up with all 8 screws installed and #2 on clickers. Seems to be in a good place. Do have a question about primary bolt torque if anyone experienced this. Initially torqued to 175. Ran it for 5 minutes in neighborhood. Checked torque and it took quit a bit to get back to 175. Took it out again for 5-10 minutes and same thing needed some more torque again. Seems odd?

 

[Raidernut]

Also wanted to add i took the advice from a post I had read and removed the snorkel that attaches to inner cvt cover. Siliconed the gaskets in place and without using the inner screw just the 1 on each end it can be removed in under a minute. This allows the cover even with the evo adapter to literally just slide right in from the backside with no issue whatsoever. No more manipulating it out the front just amazing at how easy it is that way. Cant remember who to thank for that idea but God bless you man!

 

[AXE]

Got my clutches installed today and thanks to alot of tips from this thread was painless. Ended up with all 8 screws installed and #2 on clickers. Seems to be in a good place. Do have a question about primary bolt torque if anyone experienced this. Initially torqued to 175. Ran it for 5 minutes in neighborhood. Checked torque and it took quit a bit to get back to 175. Took it out again for 5-10 minutes and same thing needed some more torque again. Seems odd?

When I install new clutches, I always use valve lapping compound on the shaft to clutch mating surfaces. Work it both directions for a couple minutes each way. Then clean the lapping compound off and install and torque the clutch. There are videos on YouTube that show the process.

That being said, my shaft looked really clean, so not sure it made a huge difference. In the past, I've seen some light corrosion on the shaft and it really made a difference on those clutches to get a smooth and clean mating surface.

I did my initial torque with a torque bar and an impact wrench. Then I re-torqued after a few miles and I only seen it move another degree or so. I checked it again a couple times after more miles and it never budged again.

 

[AXE]

Also wanted to add i took the advice from a post I had read and removed the snorkel that attaches to inner cvt cover. Siliconed the gaskets in place and without using the inner screw just the 1 on each end it can be removed in under a minute. This allows the cover even with the evo adapter to literally just slide right in from the backside with no issue whatsoever. No more manipulating it out the front just amazing at how easy it is that way. Cant remember who to thank for that idea but God bless you man!

I seen that information in a video too. I think it was Dirty Offroad Adventures on YouTube. It definitely needs to be planned before you blow a belt out in the boonies.

 

[Raidernut]

When I install new clutches, I always use valve lapping compound on the shaft to clutch mating surfaces. Work it both directions for a couple minutes each way. Then clean the lapping compound off and install and torque the clutch. There are videos on YouTube that show the process.

That being said, my shaft looked really clean, so not sure it made a huge difference. In the past, I've seen some light corrosion on the shaft and it really made a difference on those clutches to get a smooth and clean mating surface.

I did my initial torque with a torque bar and an impact wrench. Then I re-torqued after a few miles and I only seen it move another degree or so. I checked it again a couple times after more miles and it never budged again.

Ya I did the light lapping as well, and thoroughly cleaned the shaft and primary. Not sure why it keeps backing off a bit. Also installed razorback gauge. Going to glamis next weekend supposed to be hot so it will be interesting to check actual belt temps

 

[Raidernut]

I seen that information in a video too. I think it was Dirty Offroad Adventures on YouTube. It definitely needs to be planned before you blow a belt out in the boonies.

Ya your right thats were i saw it. Not kidding that is a game changer. Sorry but Im not trying to jack up a trailing arm in the dunes. I had the cover on and off about 5 times today and it couldn't of been any easier.

 

[AXE]

Ya I did the light lapping as well, and thoroughly cleaned the shaft and primary. Not sure why it keeps backing off a bit. Also installed razorback gauge. Going to glamis next weekend supposed to be hot so it will be interesting to check actual belt temps

Did you get the spacer in the TAPP primary clutch cover correctly between the bolt? Might need to pull it and check it all out.

I know for past clutch applications they always wanted you to use a new bolt anytime it was removed. I swear my bolt head got twisted a tad. Because when you watch it spin, it looks like its wobbling, even though the primary is spinning perfectly. Sort of freaks me out, so I might get a new one.

 

[Raidernut]

The spacer just pushes in like a collar in the front hole of primary correct?

 

[AXE]

The spacer just pushes in like a collar in the front hole of primary correct?

Yep. I don't know if you could put it upside down or not, but theoretically it wouldn't allow the bolt to seat the clutch far enough onto the shaft to stay torqued.

There are also large nuts internal to the primary. If they aren't secure it might not be fully seating. I doubt that's an issue, I'm just throwing out some ideas.

I had to remove a Can Am primary to get the belt cords out of the helix. When I installed it later it came undone again. Thats when I discovered more shit inside the spring and it wasn't torquing down properly.

 

[Raidernut]

Yep. I don't know if you could put it upside down or not, but theoretically it wouldn't allow the bolt to seat the clutch far enough onto the shaft to stay torqued.

There are also large nuts internal to the primary. If they are secure it might not be fully seating. I doubt that's an issue, I'm just throwing out some ideas.

I had to remove a Can Am primary to get the belt cords out of the helix. When I installed it later it came undone again. Thats when I discovered more shit inside the spring and it wasn't torquing down properly.

Appreciate your input!