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Tapp primary and secondary update

All these aftermarket clutches existed in one form or another. The only real difference is the shaft bushing and how the weights are set up for a given application. Both Tapp and La Rue appeared to add another element to their inner cooling sheave fins, but they are bolt on, not integral to the clutch itself. Otherwise, it's just the same stuff they are selling for other machines.

CVT clutches have been around for decades. I'm surprised Kawasaki screwed the pooch so bad on these shitty clutches that look like they belong on a snowmobile from 1977. We'll see if they go full Ford and GM, but this is a bad look for the Japs.
 
I removed the restrictive plate behind the primary to help move more air with the RPM fan. It makes a difference on the amount of air moving through the cvt box. I am having good results with the rpm fan, green spring, 4 washers on each roller bolts, and number 1 clickers. 3 on the clickers run really well, I just like 1 better. I have the AA 93/95octane tune. This is with the Evo BA belt. In the dunes last week I seen a average of 190.
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I removed the restrictive plate behind the primary to help move more air with the RPM fan. It makes a difference on the amount of air moving through the cvt box. I am having good results with the rpm fan, green spring, 4 washers on each roller bolts, and number 1 clickers. 3 on the clickers run really well, I just like 1 better. I have the AA 93/95octane tune. This is with the Evo BA belt. In the dunes last week I seen a average of 190.
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I posted about removing that plastic plate in my Tapp clutch thread, but I'm only running the Tapp primary. It actually worked against me, so I put it back in. It definitely seems like it adds a lot of volume, so if you have an aux fan pushing, I can see how it would work.
 
I posted about removing that plastic plate in my Tapp clutch thread, but I'm only running the Tapp primary. It actually worked against me, so I put it back in. It definitely seems like it adds a lot of volume, so if you have an aux fan pushing, I can see how it would work.
I was wondering about how pulling off an air intake diverter plate could help with cooling.

I'm very curious as to how Kawasaki is going to resolve the cooling issue. Batch of bad primaries I can understand and will be a simple fix. Cooling issue is a bit more of a challenge. With extreme mining operations and aerospace experience I'm sure this will get resolved.

Back in the early 2,000's I did multiple over and over and over full throttle pulls up China Wall, Gordons Gap, Oldsmoble and drag racing with the KFX 700. I ran the original belt that came from the factory and only pulled the cover off once to swap to Dalton springs and weights. We all know for sure that Kawasaki has a lot of experience with this type of clutch.
 
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There's only a few ways to increase air flow to cvt. 1) add an aux fan before cvt inlet to increase volume, 2) add more cooling fins to the primary and secondy to pull more air, 3) change design of cvt, relocating inlet to front and exhaust to rear inline with the belt or add an additional inlet. We've already proven # 1 and 2. In my opinion, Kawasaki won't address the issues in their entirety, it'll be up to the aftermarket and customers to get everything resolved. It's gonna cost a lot of money to own one of these rigs.

You put more faith in Kawasaki than I do. They have some pretty egregious errors on these rigs. Exploding clutches, bad axles, bad fuel tank float/guage, bad steering racks, weak shock springs, poor sounding stereo, and bad gear boxes. That's a lot of shit to get wrong on one vehicle.
 
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There's only a few ways to increase air flow to cvt. 1) add an aux fan before cvt inlet to increase volume, 2) add more cooling fins to the primary and secondy tonpull.more air, 3) change design of cvt, relocating inlet to front and exhaust to rear inline with the belt or add an additional inlet. We've already proven # 1 and 2. In my opinion, Kawasaki won't address the issues in their entirety, it'll be up to the aftermarket and customers to get everything resolved. It's gonna cost a lot of money to own one of these rigs.

You put more faith in Kawasaki than I do. They have some pretty egregious errors on these rigs. Exploding clutches, bad axles, bad fuel tank float/guage, bad steering racks, weak shock springs, poor sounding stereo, and bad gear boxes. That's a lot of shit to get wrong on one vehicle.
Bad axles or people rock bouncing and breaking them. Axles breaking is 99% the fault of the owner. From what I understand the axles popping out issue is resolved with a shim or circ clip.

I have almost 800 miles on my H2 and the springs have not sagged. The front does not have the correct spring rate for my driving style in the dunes. Have not heard of steering rack issues or gear box issues.

As far as cooling Kawi can address the issue by adding a second air inlet directly onto the secondary just like what Polaris does. Also adding cooling fins to the secondary would be helpful. If a secondary clutch is all I need to get the cooling and belt life better so be it. I have spend far more on other SXSs I have owned over the years.
 
That's the same message as I've seen from others. Mostly it reads as cope for this shitbox rig we know we bought tho!

The list of issues people are having is extensive and widespread. You see it on several other social media forums too. Some occur with barely any miles on them. I hardly doubt that much of it is abuse. Afterall, their promo videos showed them hammering the shit out of their rigs and claiming they were the pinnacle of the sport UTV market.

You can make a lot of excuses for these multi billion $$$ companies and their subpar design and manufacturing. I'm just not that guy and
I've long since tired of it after the last 5 years of mediocrity in the automotive, equipmemt, and powersports industries.

Like I said, the aftermarket will likely have to salvage these turds and you'll pay for it for some time to come.
 
Bad axles or people rock bouncing and breaking them. Axles breaking is 99% the fault of the owner. From what I understand the axles popping out issue is resolved with a shim or circ clip.

I have almost 800 miles on my H2 and the springs have not sagged. The front does not have the correct spring rate for my driving style in the dunes. Have not heard of steering rack issues or gear box issues.

As far as cooling Kawi can address the issue by adding a second air inlet directly onto the secondary just like what Polaris does. Also adding cooling fins to the secondary would be helpful. If a secondary clutch is all I need to get the cooling and belt life better so be it. I have spend far more on other SXSs I have owned over the years.
My springs were shot at 500 miles, especially the tender springs. So bad my geometry on the steering and rear wheels was pretty bad. I put some preload back in them and they still rode ok, but already have a little more sag in them. Perhaps some batches didn't get a proper heat treat.

I wanted to buy an STM clutch. I called them and they said they hadn't completed their testing cause their shop car lost a rear gearbox. Seen other posts as well, which is why there are already rebuild services and new parts available. That axle clip issue is embarrassing, it just further demonstrates how poorly their QC is.

I've got a fueling issue with mine now. Everytime I drive it, the cab smells like I pumped a gallon of gas in the back seat. Gonna run it into the dealer if they'll work on it during the stop ride.
 
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My springs were shot at 500 miles, especially the tender springs. So bad my geometry on the steering and rear wheels was pretty bad. I put some preload back in them and they still rode ok, but already have a little more sag in them. Perhaps some batches didn't get a proper heat treat.

I wanted to buy an STM clutch. I called them and they said they hadn't completed their testing cause their shop car lost a rear gearbox. Seen other posts as well, which is why there are already rebuild services and new parts available. That axle clip issue is embarrassing, it just further demonstrates how poorly their QC is.

I've got a fueling issue with mine now. Everytime I drive it, the cab smells like I pumped a gallon of gas in the back seat. Gonna run it into the dealer if they'll work on it during the stop ride.
Compared to the other OEMs I think Kawi is much better on dealing with issues and also have far less issues overall. I will see how it goes once I am able to clock more miles on my car. It is baffling how Kawi missed he mark on the clutching, especially when they had the media romping on the cars in 100+ heat and had no issues. Only conclusion is they did not do a lot of testing in the dunes.

Fuel smell I would bet is a venting issue.

The springs that come on the H2 are actual Fox springs (whoever manufactures them for Fox). They have actual Fox part numbers on them. I will say these springs are far better than what came on my X3s or my Polaris. No there are not as good as Eibach or Hypercoil. At 200 miles on my other cars the springs sagged and were pretty much done.
 
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I know others have mentioned venting issues, but not totally sure what they meant. I understood it was something to do with the gas caps not venting and becoming difficult to remove. I've never seen that much, but it does occasionally feel harder to turn.

I don't smell it when its sitting in the garage and have checked the lines and fittings coming intonthe motor. It doesn't smell at idle when warming up. It starts to smell a few hundred feet after driving and doesn't quit. It smells rich like the mapping is off under loaf. Gonna clean up the supercharger and filter again try to see if there might be an exhaust leak.
 
It would be interesting to pull a set of springs and measure them vs a new set. But thats a lot of work.

I feel like its mostly the tender spring. I seen a guy last night post that he has added preload twice and now has no slack in the tender spring.

Mine is still riding pretty well after adjusting, so I'll probably have them replaced before next dune season.
 
I know others have mentioned venting issues, but not totally sure what they meant. I understood it was something to do with the gas caps not venting and becoming difficult to remove. I've never seen that much, but it does occasionally feel harder to turn.

I don't smell it when its sitting in the garage and have checked the lines and fittings coming intonthe motor. It doesn't smell at idle when warming up. It starts to smell a few hundred feet after driving and doesn't quit. It smells rich like the mapping is off under loaf. Gonna clean up the supercharger and filter again try to see if there might be an exhaust leak.
There should be some type of vent from the gas tank and my guess is where every they routed that is the issue or one of the check valves is faulty.
 
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There should be some type of vent from the gas tank and my guess is where every they routed that is the issue or one of the check valves is faulty.
I was gonna pull the seat and look. Wasn't sure how easy access is, but was thinking of just waiting for recall service at this point.
 
I was gonna pull the seat and look. Wasn't sure how easy access is, but was thinking of just waiting for recall service at this point.
I would let the dealer look into it. Your car is going to be there when they do the recall stuff anyway.
 
I would let the dealer look into it. Your car is going to be there when they do the recall stuff anyway.
Yeah, I talked with the service advisor at my local dealer. He said he would take care of it for me if it was a simple fix. However, if it required warranty authorization, they would not be able to do it due to the stop ride order.

He said it was likely due to bad venting in the gas cap. Sounds like they knew about that issue. He said try and clean it and tap it some, as it might just be a stuck diaphragm. Otherwise could be in one of the lines.

I told him I'll give it another look and wait for the recall. He said he just checked in with Kawasaki and still no firm date for recall repairs.
 
I already have my name on the list to get one from the first run of these.
 
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Are they gonna give these to those of us that got that useless piece of 3D printed plastic fantastic that we had to assemble to our primary clutch?

I'm gonna be really pissed if they charge us for this swap.

I watched a video on assembly of a Tapp clutch and they use some unique wrenches with extremely large handles. I'm not sure this is a garage swap.
 
Yeah, me too! I saw the same vid and am not inclined to even consider disassembling the primary!
 
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