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📆 What have you done to your Teryx H2 today?

Well, this tread died down once all the Starlink haters calmed down.
Who are the Starlink haters on this thread? Hate is a pretty strong word to throw around.
Still the biggest complaint about the H2 is zero storage.
There is a ton of storage on mine. I have the OEM low profile rear trunk that carries everything I need plus a spare on top. I do understand your thinking though seeing you are an overlander.

I lived my life as a minimalist. Just the necessities for comfort.
 
In keeping in the theme of this thread, while not as fancy, I did a solid modification A few weeks back. I fabricated a few plates to reinforce the combo whip/light mounts. I noticed both of them bending back when using the 5150 whip lights and flags.

This completely made the mounts rock solid. Only for the cost of some 12 gauge scrap plate I had lying around, about 1 hour of my labor and one cut off wheel. Field tested in some rough hero dirt and has not budged!!

Also did a static adjustment to all my pods and light bars. I will never drive fast enough to outrun these lights. Kawasaki is almost as good as the Baja Designs lighting I have on all my motorcycles.

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LOL!

You actually convinced me to look into running Starlink. I’m just figuring out the best mounting solution for my needs and will move forward when I get back from my MT fly fishing trip…
 
LOL!

You actually convinced me to look into running Starlink. I’m just figuring out the best mounting solution for my needs and will move forward when I get back from my MT fly fishing trip…
You can go on Amazon and get really nice foam formed cases for them. Completely self contained and only pull it out when you need it. Takes less than 5 minutes to setup and get a signal. I cannot understand mounting it but to each their own.

I have done some experimenting in tree cover and the desert. No matter which direction it is pointed angled toward the sky it takes less than 1 minute to grab a signal. I was in Reserve NM a few weeks back and used the crud out of my Starlink. No cell reception and made calls through my Starlink. This was during heavy cloud cover and pouring rain when even the GPS signals were lost.

I have no idea how it is able to get a signal when the GPS fails. I had laminated paper maps I used on the trail during the rally for navigation. I was on my 300 so not practical to lug around a huge Starlink.

I should be a salesman for Elon!!
 
You can go on Amazon and get really nice foam formed cases for them. Completely self contained and only pull it out when you need it. Takes less than 5 minutes to setup and get a signal. I cannot understand mounting it but to each their own.

I have done some experimenting in tree cover and the desert. No matter which direction it is pointed angled toward the sky it takes less than 1 minute to grab a signal. I was in Reserve NM a few weeks back and used the crud out of my Starlink. No cell reception and made calls through my Starlink. This was during heavy cloud cover and pouring rain when even the GPS signals were lost.

I have no idea how it is able to get a signal when the GPS fails. I had laminated paper maps I used on the trail during the rally for navigation. I was on my 300 so not practical to lug around a huge Starlink.

I should be a salesman for Elon!!

I have a case for my mini - we use it in our motorhome. My wife can work remotely with the mini - which she did while I went fly fishing for four days… :cool:

I’m currently sitting at Lewis & Clark State Park, which has zero service (except Starlink). Rain & cloud cover and still have a good signal.

I need a mount I can easily remove to use with the RV. In the coach, I use either a Flagpole Buddy setup or set it on the ground, depending on trees, etc.
 
I've been working on mine since July (with a long break to go fly fishing), adding various accessories and auxiliary wiring, etc.

Today I finalized the winch connections at the battery. Not being a fan of large conductors connected to the battery without fuses or breakers, I added a marine battery switch in the battery cover with Anderson QD connectors so I can remove the battery cover easily when needed. BTW, I contacted Warn and they stated no fuse or breaker necessary for the Axon winch... :rolleyes:

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I'm installing the RPM aux fuel tank as well, so things are not quite finished yet in the back. Oh, and in the 3rd pic, towards center back, is the Sierra6 switcher main fuse. I'll post more on that later...
 
I’ve done quite a bit.

-DRT bumper
-Black OPS 4500 winch
-Harbor freight Road Shock lights
-Rugged intercom/radio
-1/2” super ATV skid plate
-Garmin back up camera
-Razorback belt temp gage
-Super ATV flip up windshield
-15” KMC wheels
-35” Roxxzillas
-Fire extinguisher
-super ATV pack out mount
-Super ATV tool kit
-S&B particle separator
-Chase light
-Mega Whipz 4’ whips
-KWI fusion primary and secondary clutch w/ pro R belt
-switched power bus bar
-Kawasaki mirror set
-WD electronics turn signal kit

I’ve got most installed, but it’s still a work in progress.
 
I’ve done quite a bit.

-DRT bumper
-Black OPS 4500 winch
-Harbor freight Road Shock lights
-Rugged intercom/radio
-1/2” super ATV skid plate
-Garmin back up camera
-Razorback belt temp gage
-Super ATV flip up windshield
-15” KMC wheels
-35” Roxxzillas
-Fire extinguisher
-super ATV pack out mount
-Super ATV tool kit
-S&B particle separator
-Chase light
-Mega Whipz 4’ whips
-KWI fusion primary and secondary clutch w/ pro R belt
-switched power bus bar
-Kawasaki mirror set
-WD electronics turn signal kit

I’ve got most installed, but it’s still a work in progress.
Photos or it didn't happen. ;)
 
Today's progress...

RPM aux fuel tank:
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Starlink using Axia Alloys new horizontal mount:

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Past projects...

DRT rear bumper and Garmin rear cam: What's not showing are the BD chase lights and 5150 whips.

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DRT front winch bumper, Warn Axon 55-s winch, BD OnX6 light bar, Garmin front cam:

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The chase lights, OnX6, Garmin cams, whips, and Starlink are all switched through the SSVWorks Sierra6 switching system. For the Garmin cams, I have separate switches configured for front & rear and the Tread automatically displays which ever one I turn on. If they are both on, then I can toggle between the two with the Tread, but I won't really run both at the same time. Front is for blind approaches over a hill and rear is whenever I need to see behind me.
 
Ok… I spent a ton of effort installing and everything is great with a few exceptions.

-Auxbeam doesn’t remember what switches were on before power was killed. Therefore, I have to bypass the unit to get constant on. This sux. Defeats the purpose of the auxbeam. Anyone know if this can be programmed??

-I got rugged radio because I saw their app has an equalizer. But after everything is installed, I learned that the app does not work with the remote head unit. Aaaarrrggghhh!!! Again, defeats the purpose!!

-Rugged headsets sound good while sitting still. But they do little to attenuate wind and engine noise. I can barely hear the music. I miss my PCI already.

-there is no indicator for turn signals on my dash. My Polaris had this… why did Kawi skip this? Or an I looking in the wrong place?
 
First ride today. Compared to my Polaris Pro XP with HCR long travel:

H2 handles way better. Bites in turns where the pro would push. Obviously, way more zippy. But the ride is much stiffer than the pro XP. I had to ride slower over bumpy rock gardens or my guts were going to shake out. I’ve been told that the shocks loosen up after a couple hundred miles. I’ve got my fingers crossed.
 

I will agree, the Rugged headsets are quite. Just incase you have not checked. Make sure your input from the device you are streaming from is at full volume. And make sure your squelch is adjusted so the wind or your breath are not cutting the music volume. It can drop the volume but you don’t hear any sidetone so you think it’s good. That includes the passenger headsets if plugged in. I have run a bunch of Rugged and PCI setups. I think they are very comparable apples to apples, both have great customer service. You can’t compare a Kenwood to the baufaung. But the new remote control for the intercom is super sweet. This car I’m trying the Cardo system out. More and more people are getting them and with the new update to 30 riders and different brands could make it the go to. And its pretty awesome to have your spotter be able to get out and still talk to you through the headset since they are wireless.
 
I will agree, the Rugged headsets are quite. Just incase you have not checked. Make sure your input from the device you are streaming from is at full volume. And make sure your squelch is adjusted so the wind or your breath are not cutting the music volume. It can drop the volume but you don’t hear any sidetone so you think it’s good. That includes the passenger headsets if plugged in. I have run a bunch of Rugged and PCI setups. I think they are very comparable apples to apples, both have great customer service. You can’t compare a Kenwood to the baufaung. But the new remote control for the intercom is super sweet. This car I’m trying the Cardo system out. More and more people are getting them and with the new update to 30 riders and different brands could make it the go to. And its pretty awesome to have your spotter be able to get out and still talk to you through the headset since they are wireless.
I do like the concept of the Cardo system. But it only works if everyone has it. Where I am at, everyone is on business band radios (Rugged or PCI).
 
That clutch cover looks pretty slick for the guys that need it in the dunes for clutch adjustments to aftermarket clutches. Or those who are changing belts frequently. I'm assuming you cannot run the scatter shield with this?

Thank you Craig for at least giving us owners a viable option for a very easy to service clutch in the field. Your product looks well though out my man.
 
That clutch cover looks pretty slick for the guys that need it in the dunes for clutch adjustments to aftermarket clutches. Or those who are changing belts frequently. I'm assuming you cannot run the scatter shield with this?

Thank you Craig for at least giving us owners a viable option for a very easy to service clutch in the field. Your product looks well though out my man.
Exactly why would you want to run the scatter shield? It was designed by a lawyer, not an engineer.

I pre ordered mine as well!!
 
Exactly why would you want to run the scatter shield? It was designed by a lawyer, not an engineer.

I pre ordered mine as well!!
It is an added safety feature. I saw a few of these H2's at the sand show including EVO's on display that had extensive frame and rear firewall damage from a clutch that failed.

Not to mention it is not all that difficult to remove for service. I've had my cover off twice to blow out the dust. Just a bit fiddly is all. I personally would not ever consider running my rig without the rear plate and scatter shield.

When you have a rig putting out this much horsepower anything that can hep save damage when heavy mass spinning can fail is a good thing.
 
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