TAPP Clutch Install

[AXE]

I did some more testing this past weekend on the Tapp Primary and stock secondary setup and used the Razorback belt temp guage to get better data. Was mainly on some desert hardback with some areas of loose sand/gravel and paved roads. Ambient temps were 80-90F and ran the OEM and Evo Bad Ass belts.

You can run this setup in high-power mode for a long time at around 195-205 F belt temps, as long as your not mashing the throttle down. As soon as you start mashing the throttle spinning tires or doing hard roll ons up to 65-75 mph the belt temps climb fast to 230F.

I attribute the high belt temps mainly due to lack of airflow through the cvt housing and heat soak from the cvt plastic and aluminum sheaves.

I was able to validate this today when I pulled the CVT cover and ran the same loop and same driving manners and never seen high belt temps at all when measuring with my handheld IR thermometer. The belt ran consistently between 165-190F. The sheaves stayed cool and both were the same temp. I could hold my hand on the outer sheaves. The inner sheave was a little too warm to touch for a long time. You could run all day like this and not smoke belts.

 

[AXE]

Also noticed that when I would stop with belt temps above 215F you could feel a little belt slippage. A fair amount of slippage when turning slowly, especially above 220F

 

[AXE]

You can also run in low and never see belt temps rise above 195 F and in mid they are about 200-210 F. So if you value belt life and want to save some dollars, then stay out of high power mode.

 

[Sand Shark]

I did some more testing this past weekend on the Tapp Primary and stock secondary setup and used the Razorback belt temp guage to get better data. Was mainly on some desert hardback with some areas of loose sand/gravel and paved roads. Ambient temps were 80-90F and ran the OEM and Evo Bad Ass belts.

You can run this setup in high-power mode for a long time at around 195-205 F belt temps, as long as your not mashing the throttle down. As soon as you start mashing the throttle spinning tires or doing hard roll ons up to 65-75 mph the belt temps climb fast to 230F.

I attribute the high belt temps mainly due to lack of airflow through the cvt housing and heat soak from the cvt plastic and aluminum sheaves.

I was able to validate this today when I pulled the CVT cover and ran the same loop and same driving manners and never seen high belt temps at all when measuring with my handheld IR thermometer. The belt ran consistently between 165-190F. The sheaves stayed cool and both were the same temp. I could hold my hand on the outer sheaves. The inner sheave was a little too warm to touch for a long time. You could run all day like this and not smoke belts.

Would be interesting to see if the Tapp secondary improves the belt temps and performance. The Tapp secondary should dissipate heat better and move more air over the stock secondary.

 

[AXE]

Would be interesting to see if the Tapp secondary improves the belt temps and performance. The Tapp secondary should dissipate heat better and move more air over the stock secondary.

I know another guy that ran his full Tapp last weekend at Glamis. He's also installed the Razorback guage and said he ran his hard 3 days between 195 and 215 and no belt issues. He's got a YouTube channel called Sunday SXS and is going to post some video on it this week.

The inlet and outlet are really weird design off the back side of the cvt case. The inlet looks massive above the cvt, but inside the cover it is smaller and very narrow. It cannot help the movement of air across the whole clutch assembly. My other rigs had dual inlets and they were more on the middle of the cvt case. Obviously, removing the cover eliminates the poor air flow and heat soak, so instantly the issue is mostly resolved.

Before the primary debacle I had talked with Evo about clutching. They were recommending the secondary first to keep belt temps in check. That's what they seen on their dyno testing. At that time, they didn't have the cover fix yet, so I decided to wait. Shortly thereafter, the stop ride happened. So that's why I went with the primary and my stock primary was suddenly showing deterioration.

I ran a few miles in the dunes while adjusting the Tapp on my first trip after install. I noticed sand sitting on the interior surface of the primary when I stopped. I don't think it would be good long term to run without the cover. I was contemplating cutting a section of the cvt cover out and fabbing up an Outerwears filter cover. I've done that for airbox covers in the past.

 

[Raidernut]

I will be in glamis this weekend. Temperature supposed to be high 90s. I will be testing tapp primary and secondary g boost belt with razorback temp guage. I am also trying the rpm inlet fan to see how that helps or hurts. Will report back during the weekend my findings.

 

[AXE]

I will be in glamis this weekend. Temperature supposed to be high 90s. I will be testing tapp primary and secondary g boost belt with razorback temp guage. I am also trying the rpm inlet fan to see how that helps or hurts. Will report back during the weekend my findings.

Looking forward to your results. I definitely feel like these warmer temps last weekend put more heat in my CVT compared to my dune trips that was highs of 65-80F.

If you start seeing high temps, try it without the cover. It's a lot better that cooking $200 belts and damaging the CVT housing. If you bust a belt and take out the cvt housing it'll run you 7 bills!

 

[Sand Shark]

Looking forward to your results. I definitely feel like these warmer temps last weekend put more heat in my CVT compared to my dune trips that was highs of 65-80F.

If you start seeing high temps, try it without the cover. It's a lot better that cooking $200 belts and damaging the CVT housing. If you bust a belt and take out the cvt housing it'll run you 7 bills!

I have smoked belts with and without the cover. Without the cover the belt when it breaks can hit the wires to the rectifier.

 

[Sand Shark]

I will be in glamis this weekend. Temperature supposed to be high 90s. I will be testing tapp primary and secondary g boost belt with razorback temp guage. I am also trying the rpm inlet fan to see how that helps or hurts. Will report back during the weekend my findings.

Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

 

[AXE]

I have smoked belts with and without the cover. Without the cover the belt when it breaks can hit the wires to the rectifier.

Sounds cheap, how much are those? I could splice the wires for $0.25.

 

[Raidernut]

Been there done that already. Inner and out covers at the same time plus belt is not cheap. I have high hopes for the primary and secondary with the rpm fan. I know some are skeptical on the fan, but I've had one on my last 2 machines and it did make a difference

 

[AXE]

I decided to do some more testing to see if i can improve airflow through the CVT cover. The CVT air inlet has a think cover and an air damn that directs airflow. It looked to me like it would restrict some air flow. I decided to remove it and see what happened with the Tapp primary and stock secondary. You had to pull the primary to remove it and it wasn't easy to remove the screw behind the secondary, but I got it.

After reinstalling the primary, I started it up and idle temps never moved, but I didn't think motor was pushing much air through the CVT exhaust outlet. When I ran it, it actually seemed to have some benefit will cruising and running in the midddle of the powerband. However when I started getting on it harder, iy was clearly not moving enough air and allowed the belt tempsmto get higher than without it. Also, it did not want to shed heat very well after it got hot. Didn't help much to run slow or idle, it just barely dropped a few degrees after several minutes.

So while I'm glad I tested it, I dont think it will help with this setup. Maybe with the secondary it would with extra cooling fins, but I have my doubt.

Here's a couple photos to show what I removed.

 

[Sand Shark]

Sounds cheap, how much are those? I could splice the wires for $0.25.

I did not have to replace it. The connector was knocked off and I reconnected it. I have seen others where the wires were ripped.

 

[AXE]

I contacted Evo a couple days ago to see when the revised fan blade for the Tapp primary inner sheave would be avaliable. They said they are waiting to hear from Tapp and would likely know something in the next week or two.

I asked if Tapp would be providing some sort of retrofit for those of us that jumped in early. I asked if it would be low or no cost (emphasis on no cost). He said he understood and was hoping Tapp would help customers out.

I also mentioned that it did not look like a customer fix, due to the large wrenches used to assemble the spider nut and clutch sheaves. He agreed it would be hard to do.

Anyway, I sure hope we dont have to fork out more money for the beta test program we're in.

I see La Rue has already released a new version of their clutch with the SuperFan on the inner sheave.

 

[olliechristopher]

I feel so very fortunate to be waiting patiently. Summertime here in Southern California is watercraft craziness and dealers will have smoking deals on SXS's. Hopefully these clutch kits will be sorted out. Other than the clutch and a small number of axle failures this looks to be a very reliable platform.

In the meantime I'm having a blast on my Beta 4T and 2T dual sport bikes as well as my mountain bike and Super Tenere. Should be getting my trailer build finished in the next week or two. According to Kawasaki USA the Teryx H2's should be rolling out fully repaired and resume sales before end of June. As a potential buyer that is a perfect time to wheel and deal for all brands.

 

[AXE]

Installed a Bad Ass XC belt from Brute Performance. At $150 this seems to be a good belt for money. It measured slightly smaller in length than my used WBB that I previously ran on my stock clutch as well as the Tapp primary.

I noticed that the belt deflection (1+ cm estimated) is almost perfect with the Tapp primary and stock secondary. The OEM belt is tight with almost no deflection and the used WBB was loose with a lot of excess deflection.

I really liked how smooth this belt engaged when starting moving from a stop in both forward and reverse. It also appeared to manage heat well. I did a couple 5 mile runs to break it in and ran in mid power mode and kept the temps about 190F or less. Just ran a few more miles today in high power mode and after a few roll ons to 70 mph, it did not generate much belt heat. Seen about 212F on the Razorback guage and it cooled quickly too with ambient temps at about 90F.

We'll see how it does after the next couple hundred miles, but so far I like this belt. Hoping it doesn't stretch much and get loose. I think that's where you get slipping in the secondary and then too much heat.

H2 1000 G BOOST BELT - ITS A KRX 1000 BELT DBKA0047XC

H2 1000 G BOOST BELT - ITS A KRX 1000 BELT THATS A TAD LONGER DBKA0047XC THIS IS WHAT THOSE OTHER FOLKS ARE TRYING TO SELL YOU AS THIER OWN WIDER SUPER SECRET SQUIREL BELT THATS SUPER DELUX AND RIDES HIGHER IN THE SECONDARY THIS IS THE G BOOST KRX 1000 BELT THATS A TAD LONGER, ITS NOT WIDER OR...

bruteperformance.com

 

[Sand Shark]

Installed a Bad Ass XC belt from Brute Performance. At $150 this seems to be a good belt for money. It measured slightly smaller in length than my used WBB that I previously ran on my stock clutch as well as the Tapp primary.

I noticed that the belt deflection (1+ cm estimated) is almost perfect with the Tapp primary and stock secondary. The OEM belt is tight with almost no deflection and the used WBB was loose with a lot of excess deflection.

I really liked how smooth this belt engaged when starting moving from a stop in both forward and reverse. It also appeared to manage heat well. I did a couple 5 mile runs to break it in and ran in mid power mode and kept the temps about 190F or less. Just ran a few more miles today in high power mode and after a few roll ons to 70 mph, it did not generate much belt heat. Seen about 212F on the Razorback guage and it cooled quickly too with ambient temps at about 90F.

We'll see how it does after the next couple hundred miles, but so far I like this belt. Hoping it doesn't stretch much and get loose. I think that's where you get slipping in the secondary and then too much heat.

H2 1000 G BOOST BELT - ITS A KRX 1000 BELT DBKA0047XC

H2 1000 G BOOST BELT - ITS A KRX 1000 BELT THATS A TAD LONGER DBKA0047XC THIS IS WHAT THOSE OTHER FOLKS ARE TRYING TO SELL YOU AS THIER OWN WIDER SUPER SECRET SQUIREL BELT THATS SUPER DELUX AND RIDES HIGHER IN THE SECONDARY THIS IS THE G BOOST KRX 1000 BELT THATS A TAD LONGER, ITS NOT WIDER OR...

bruteperformance.com

Nice find.
Is this the same belt Super ATV sells? I have killed OEM belts, the evopower Gboost belt they sell, and a super atv belt.

 

[AXE]

Nice find.
Is this the same belt Super ATV sells? I have killed OEM belts, the evopower Gboost belt they sell, and a super atv belt.

I sort of think that these Gboost belts are mostly the same. Visually, I can't tell the difference. In his product description, he says it is the belt that replaced the extreme and mud monster Gboost belts.

I'm not sure what to think about the longevity or quality of any of the belts. So far, the OEM belt hass been the best for me and they seem to be a stiffer material with similar construction. I have about 350 miles on each of two OEM belts, but did snap one clean tbat i think was shock load hammering across whoops with no belt slack. I think those that are blowing belts often have alignment or balance issues along with cooling. It just seems like some work better than others, so there must be more factors at play.

 

[Sand Shark]

I sort of think that these Gboost belts are mostly the same. Visually, I can't tell the difference. In his product description, he says it is the belt that replaced the extreme and mud monster Gboost belts.

I'm not sure what to think about the longevity or quality of any of the belts. So far, the OEM belt hass been the best for me and they seem to be a stiffer material with similar construction. I have about 350 miles on each of two OEM belts, but did snap one clean tbat i think was shock load hammering across whoops with no belt slack. I think those that are blowing belts often have alignment or balance issues along with cooling. It just seems like some work better than others, so there must be more factors at play.

Super ATV I believe owns Gboost.

 

[AXE]

Did another run today. Did a few hard roll ons with ambient temps about 80F. Never seen belt get over 195F. Ambient temps at 90F or above are really hard too cool the belt off. Only solution is a lot more air flow.